A garden spigot pouring water into a concrete pedestal bird bath in dark green, with a small bird perched on the rim

Tap, Softened, Rain or Well: Which Water Belongs in a Bird Bath

Every guide to bird baths tells you to change the water. Cornell says to "change the water every day or two." None of them tell you what to change it to.

That turns out to matter, because the four things people actually pour into a bird bath are not equivalent. One of them is fine and is worried about for the wrong reason. One of them carries a number that should give you pause. One of them is the most popular eco friendly tip in the hobby and has the worst evidence behind it. And for the fourth, nobody has published anything at all.

Below is what we could source, with the arithmetic shown so you can check it.

Tap water is the right answer, and the chlorine worry is backwards

The most common objection to tap water is the chlorine. It is worth putting an actual number next to that fear.

The EPA sets a maximum residual disinfectant level for chlorine in drinking water of 4 mg per liter. Now look at what a poultry authority does on purpose. Alabama Cooperative Extension, writing for commercial flocks, recommends chlorinating the birds' drinking water and says the "General recommendations are to have a level of 2 to 3 ppm at the drinker farthest from the proportioner," with a floor of "at least a 1.0 ppm level at the drinker mid-house."

Read that twice. An extension service that works with people who keep birds for a living is not trying to get chlorine out of the water. It is trying to keep chlorine in it, at a concentration that sits inside the range your tap already delivers.

EPA ceiling for tap water
4 mg per liter of residual chlorine
What poultry extension targets
1 to 3 ppm at the drinker, deliberately maintained
What this does not settle
Chickens are not songbirds, and a production flock drinking from one source all day is not a chickadee with a hundred puddles to choose from. It is the closest published avian drinking water number we could find, and we are presenting it as that rather than as proof

There is a separate chlorine question and it is easy to run the two together. The University of Florida IFAS Extension states that "Concrete birdbaths should be washed with soap and warm water only (no chlorine)." That instruction is about scrubbing a basin with a bleach solution, which is a very different concentration from the residual left in municipal tap water. One is a cleaning product. The other is a trace. More on that distinction in the concrete cleaning guide.

Softened water is the one we would actually avoid

This is the finding that surprised us, and it is the one with real numbers on both sides.

An ion exchange softener does not remove hardness so much as trade it. University of Nebraska Extension puts the exchange rate plainly: "Through the softening process, sodium is added to water at a rate of about 8 mg/L for each grain per gallon (gpg) of hardness." Their worked example is that water treated from 10 gpg "will contain roughly 80 mg/L of sodium afterward." North Dakota State Extension gives the same figure independently, "For every grain of hardness removed from water, about 8 mg/1 (ppm) of sodium is added."

Now the other side. Alabama Extension's water quality table for poultry lists a "Maximum Acceptable Level" for sodium of "50 mg/l," and adds that "Levels above 50 mg/l may affect performance if the sulfate or chloride level is high." For chloride the ceiling is 250 mg/l, with the note that "Levels as low as 14 mg/l may be detrimental if the sodium level is higher than 50 mg/l."

Put the two together and the arithmetic is short. We are showing our working because this next step is ours, not anyone else's.

  1. The exchange rate. Softening adds about 8 mg per liter of sodium for every grain per gallon of hardness it removes.
  2. The ceiling. Fifty divided by eight is 6.25. So a softener starts producing water above the poultry sodium guideline once the incoming supply is harder than roughly 6 grains per gallon.
  3. The unit conversion. Nebraska Extension gives one grain per gallon as about 17.1 mg per liter of hardness, so 6.25 gpg is about 107 mg per liter.
  4. Where that lands. The US Geological Survey classifies water as soft up to 60 mg per liter, moderately hard from 61 to 120, hard from 121 to 180, and very hard above 180. The 107 threshold falls near the top of moderately hard.

Which produces a single sentence worth remembering. If your incoming water is hard enough by the USGS scale to be worth softening in the first place, the softened output is very likely above the only published avian sodium guideline we could find.

Chart plotting sodium added by an ion exchange softener against incoming water hardness, showing the line crossing the 50 mg per liter poultry guideline at about 107 mg per liter of hardness, which falls at the top of the moderately hard band
Sodium out against hardness in, at the 8 mg per liter per grain rate that two extension services give independently. The horizontal line is a poultry guideline rather than a songbird one, which is the honest limit of this chart.

The caveats, stated before anyone else states them for us. The 50 mg per liter figure is a commercial poultry production guideline. It concerns performance in birds whose only water is that water, all day, for their whole lives. A garden bird visits your basin among many other sources. We have not found a single study on songbirds and softened water, and we are not claiming that a softened bird bath harms anything.

What we are saying is narrower. There is a published number, the softener arithmetic clears it in most homes that own a softener, and there is a free alternative, so the reasonable move is to take the free alternative.

That alternative is usually already plumbed. Nebraska Extension notes the common practice for people watching their own sodium intake, which is "having a cold water line to the kitchen tap that bypasses the water softener." Outdoor spigots are frequently on the same unsoftened side, because nobody wants to spend salt on a garden hose. Both Nebraska and North Dakota also state that softened water is not recommended for watering plants, lawns and gardens because of the sodium, which is the same reason the outdoor line often bypasses it. If you fill from an outdoor tap, you may already be doing the right thing without knowing it.

For completeness, salt poisoning in wild birds is a real documented thing rather than a theoretical one. The US Geological Survey recorded an event in North Dakota where "About 150 waterfowl died and another 250 became weak and lethargic from suspected salt poisoning" after freezing conditions left them only a saline lake to drink from. We are including that for honesty in both directions. A hypersaline lake is orders of magnitude beyond softened tap water, and it would be dishonest to wave that incident at a garden basin. It establishes that the mechanism exists. It does not establish a dose.

Rain barrel water is the popular tip with the worst evidence

Collected rainwater sounds obviously correct. It is soft, it is free, it has no municipal treatment in it, and using it feels like the environmentally responsible choice. It is also the one option on this list where an extension service has actually measured what is in it.

The University of Connecticut Extension, writing about whether rain barrel water is safe on vegetables, identifies "heavy metals like zinc, copper, lead and others as well as bacteria such as E. coli" as the concerns. On where the bacteria come from, they are specific: "The main sources would be fecal matter from animals such as squirrels and birds" that land on the roof.

Sit with that sentence for a second in this particular context. The contamination route they are describing is bird droppings on a roof. The proposal is to route that water into a basin that birds drink from.

Diagram of the rain barrel loop showing bird droppings on a roof washing into the gutter and barrel and then into a bird bath where birds drink, with the University of Connecticut findings on E coli and zinc annotated at each stage
The route the extension service describes, drawn out. The source of the contamination and the intended consumer are the same animal.

Their own handling advice tells you how much confidence they place in it. They suggest treating stored water with "one ounce of unscented household chlorine bleach" per 55 gallons monthly and waiting 24 hours, skipping the first flush of a rainfall because contaminant concentrations are highest then, having the water tested for E. coli, and "not using roof water on anything leafy that you are going to eat directly."

A bird bath is more direct than a leafy green. Nobody rinses it before use.

This matters more than it looks, because bird baths are already a documented disease transmission point when they go wrong. That is the whole subject of the article on when to take a bird bath down, and it is the reason we would not deliberately introduce a source of avian fecal bacteria into one.

To be fair to the practice, we found no study measuring pathogen loads in rain barrel water specifically as a wildlife drinking source, and rain falling into an open basin directly is a different thing from rain that has crossed a roof and sat in a barrel. Our objection is to the barrel and the roof, not to the rain.

Well water is the one nobody can answer for you

If you are on a private well, the honest answer is that your water is not a known quantity to us or to anyone writing a bird care article, because private wells are not regulated the way municipal supplies are and vary enormously.

The only usable frame we found is the same Alabama poultry table, which bands total dissolved solids. Water at "5,000 to 6,999" ppm is described as "not acceptable waters for poultry and almost always cause some type of problem," from 7,000 to 10,000 as "unfit for poultry but may be suitable for other livestock," and above 10,000 it "should not be used for any livestock or poultry."

Those thresholds are high enough that most household wells clear them comfortably. If your well has a known sodium, sulfate or nitrate problem, the bird bath is the least of what that water is doing, and a test is worth having for your own sake first.

What we would actually do

  1. Fill from an outdoor spigot. In most houses with a softener the exterior taps are on the unsoftened side already. If you are not sure, the softener installer or the plumbing run from the meter will tell you.
  2. If everything in the house is softened, use the bypass. Many units have one. Filling a two gallon basin does not justify running a whole different supply, but it is a thirty second job if the valve exists.
  3. Do not decant rain barrel water into the basin. Rain landing in the bath directly is fine and is what happens anyway. Water that has crossed a roof and sat in a barrel is a different substance.
  4. Stop worrying about the chlorine. The residual in municipal tap water is inside the band a poultry extension service deliberately maintains. Letting it stand overnight to off gas is harmless if it makes you feel better, but the water will be warmer and staler for it, which is a real cost against an unproven benefit.
  5. Change it rather than treat it. Cornell asks for every day or two. Fresh plain water beats treated old water on every axis we have been able to source.
  6. Drain rather than top up. Topping up a basin leaves the dissolved solids behind and concentrates them, which is the mechanism we covered in the article on fountains losing water.

The gap, again

Cornell tells you how often to change the water. Audubon tells you how to scrub the basin. The extension services tell you about sodium and E. coli, but they are talking to poultry farmers and vegetable gardeners. Not one bird organization we checked has published a word about which water to put in a bird bath.

This is the same shape of hole we hit writing about fountain water treatments, where the only party making a bird safety claim was the company selling the bottle. Here at least the numbers exist and belong to universities. They were simply written for chickens and tomatoes, and somebody has to do the arithmetic of carrying them across. We have shown ours so you can disagree with it.

Frequently asked questions

Should I use distilled or bottled water

No, and it is worth saying why rather than just saying no. Distilled water has had the minerals removed, which is the opposite direction of travel from the sodium problem above, so it is not harmful. It is simply an expense with no sourced benefit, in a basin you are meant to empty every day or two. Nobody has published anything suggesting birds need it.

Does letting tap water sit out overnight help

It lets free chlorine off gas, which is the reason people do it for fish tanks. For a bird bath the numbers above suggest there was not a problem to solve. It also means you are filling the basin with water that has been warming in a bucket, which is a small step in the wrong direction. Many municipal systems also use chloramine rather than free chlorine, and chloramine does not off gas the way chlorine does, so the ritual may not even do the thing it is supposed to do.

My water is very hard and leaves white crust in the basin

That is the hardness itself rather than anything harmful, and it is a cleaning question rather than a water source question. The method for taking it off a concrete basin without damaging the surface is in the cleaning guide. Softening the water to prevent it trades a cosmetic problem for a sodium one.

Can I use water from a dehumidifier or air conditioner

We would not. That water has condensed on coils and sat in a pan, and we could not find any testing of it as a drinking source for anything. The absence of evidence cuts both ways here, but there is no upside to offset it when the tap is right there.

What about pool or hot tub water

No. Pool chlorine concentrations are maintained far above the residual in tap water, and stabilized pools also carry cyanuric acid and whatever else the chemistry required. The IFAS instruction against chlorine on concrete applies with much more force here.

Does any of this change if there are mosquitoes

No, because the answer to mosquitoes is the same as the answer here, which is to empty and refill rather than to add anything. That is covered in the mosquito article.


References

  1. Reference: Attract Birds With Birdbaths | The Cornell Lab of Ornithology, All About Birds
  2. Reference: Evaluating Water Quality for Poultry | Alabama Cooperative Extension System
  3. Reference: Drinking Water Treatment, Water Softening (Ion Exchange) | University of Nebraska Lincoln Extension, publication G1491
  4. Reference: Water Softening (Ion Exchange) | North Dakota State University Extension
  5. Reference: Hardness of Water | US Geological Survey, Water Science School
  6. Reference: Can I Water Vegetables with my Rain Barrel Water | University of Connecticut Extension
  7. Reference: Salt toxicosis in waterfowl in North Dakota | US Geological Survey
  8. Reference: National Primary Drinking Water Regulations | US Environmental Protection Agency
  9. Reference: Providing Water to Wildlife | University of Florida IFAS Extension, Gardening Solutions
  10. Reference: Softened water can cause hard times for indoor plants | Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences
  11. Reference: Why You Should Keep Your Birdbath Clean | Erica Cirino, National Audubon Society

Leave a comment

This site is protected by hCaptcha and the hCaptcha Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.